Pennsylvania Avenue: Hotels, Parades and Gambling Rooms on America's Main Street

Pierre L'Enfant's 1791 plan gave Washington one great diagonal between the Capitol and the President's House. Pennsylvania Avenue became the city's main street long before it had pavements, and the Old Post Office has watched every inaugural parade since 1901 from its midpoint.

A street of hotels

For most of the nineteenth century Pennsylvania Avenue was where Washington slept, ate and argued. Members of Congress lived in boarding houses and hotels along it, among them the National Hotel near Sixth Street and, later, the Willard near the Treasury. Deals were done in bars and lobbies, and the word "lobbyist" is often, if loosely, linked to the Willard's lobby.

Faro on the avenue

Where politicians gathered, card dealers followed. Before the Civil War the avenue had private gambling rooms where faro, the most popular card game of the age, was dealt late into the night. The best known belonged to Edward Pendleton, a host and lobbyist of the 1850s whose house near the National Hotel was sometimes called the "Palace of Fortune". Contemporary accounts say legislators who lost heavily at his tables found him a useful creditor, and later reminiscences claimed a president attended his funeral. Such houses were illegal on paper and tolerated in practice. Washington has never had a licensed casino; the modern picture is in our guide to Washington DC and gambling.

A nineteenth-century stereograph of Pennsylvania Avenue looking towards the U.S. Capitol
A nineteenth-century stereograph of Pennsylvania Avenue looking towards the U.S. Capitol. Photo: Bell & Bro., Washington, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Parades and decline

The avenue's ceremonial role grew as its everyday life faded. Inaugural parades, the Grand Review of the armies in 1865, suffrage marches and funeral processions made it the nation's stage. Meanwhile offices replaced homes, the market district declined, and by the early 1960s the north side of the avenue looked tired and half empty. President Kennedy is said to have noticed it during his inaugural parade in 1961.

The renewal

That moment led to the President's Council on Pennsylvania Avenue (1962–1964), the Pennsylvania Avenue National Historic Site (1965) and the Pennsylvania Avenue Development Corporation (1972). After a first plan that would have demolished most of the Old Post Office, the corporation's 1974 plan kept it, restored the avenue's hotels, built new offices and housing, and created public spaces such as Freedom Plaza and Pershing Park.

Point on the avenueWhat is there
3rd to 7th StreetsCanadian Embassy and the former Newseum building
7th to 9th StreetsNavy Memorial, with the National Archives across the avenue
11th to 12th StreetsThe Old Post Office and the Benjamin Franklin statue
13th to 14th StreetsFreedom Plaza, the Ronald Reagan Building
14th to 15th StreetsThe Willard hotel, Pershing Park, the Treasury

The hotel comes back

In a sense the Old Post Office hotel of 2016 returned the avenue to its first identity as a street of hotels. Our story From Trump International to Waldorf Astoria follows that chapter, and the Federal Triangle story explains the buildings on the south side.